Showing posts with label white fish. Show all posts
Showing posts with label white fish. Show all posts

2020-04-08

chowder fist algorithm with a discussion of salt

Chowder is deeply satisfying and dead easy. Here's my algorithm:

Chowder is big chunks of POTATO and OTHER THINGS in a broth built of FAT, ONION, WATER and CREAM.

  • POTATO is any somewhat starchy variety because you want it to fall apart a bit and thicken the soup. I like Russet and Yukon Gold.
  • OTHER THINGS can be any or all of seafood or flaky white fish, corn, bacon.
  • FAT is butter, bacon drippings or, hell, even coconut oil.
  • ONION is a yellow or white variety and not too sweet. Could also be French shallots in a stretch.
  • WATER is, well, water of course, but if you have a bottle of clam juice and are making a fish/seafood chowder, throw that in too.
  • CREAM is heavy or whipping cream (otherwise it will curdle) with the addition, if you are making corn chowder, of some "corn-cream" made by grating some of the ears of corn.

Here's how I make about 4-6 servings (about 1 pound of chowder per serving which, I assure you, is not too much).  Measurements are mostly in terms of the volume of my clenched fist (about a cup). Making this is very relaxing (despite the clenching).

  • 1-2 thumbs fat
  • 1 f (ie. one fist) chopped coarsely onion
  • 3 f potatoes peeled and cut in wedges
  • 2 f of the other thing(s)
  • 1 f heavy cream
  • salt and pepper
Put a large, heavy bottomed pot on medium heat. If bacon is one of your other things, add to pot and cook slowly to render out the fat. (Put the bacon bits aside to add back at the end.) Sweat the onion in the fat. Add the potatoes and water to just cover.  Bring to a boil and simmer until spuds are almost tender. Add other things and cook until other things are falling apart (if white fish) or about 10 minutes.  Add cream and season with salt and (generously with) pepper (see below).  Turn off the heat and, with the lid on, let the chowder get comfortable for about 20 minutes.

The Salt

With a dish as simple as this, adequate seasoning is essential.  Salt is the not-so-secret secret ingredient. Now, if you look at the ingredients, you'll notice that, with the exception of bacon and maybe canned clams and the butter, nothing is salted. So how much salt would I expect to add to this?  My rule of thumb (thanks Julia Child) is about 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon salt per pound of unsalted food.  A pint of water is a pound and two of my fists are about a pint (two cups).  There are six fists of ingredients in the list plus the water, which is going to be about another 4 fists.  10 fists is about 5 pints so I would expect to need at least 5 x 1/2 tsp of salt, which is just shy of 1 tablespoon.

If that scares you, measure out your tablespoon into a little bowl and add it a 1/2 tsp at a time. Stir well between additions and keep tasting until you find yourself thinking, "Dear Lord, that is delicious.  I must eat an entire bowl immediately!" My guess is there won't be any salt left in your bowl.  In fact, you may have even gone beyond.

2013-04-17

coconut curry soup with fish

I hadn't made enough food for supper tonight, so I whipped this up to fill in the corners.  ML loved it.
  • 2 French shallots, finely chopped
  • 2 cloves of garlic, minced
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • pinky finger sized piece of fresh ginger, peeled
  • 1 tbsp curry powder
  • small pinch of cayenne pepper
  • 2 cups chicken stock
  • 1 can coconut milk
  • 1 carrot, julienned
  • 1 small zucchini, julienned
  • about 200 g frozen haddock fillets
  • about 1/2 cup cooked basmati rice
  • juice of one lime
  • handful of coriander leaves
Sweat the shallots and garlic in the butter.  Add curry powder and fry for a minute.  Add pepper, ginger, stock, coconut milk, carrot and zucchini and bring to a boil.  Cook for 10 minutes.  Add fish and rice and return to boil.  Cover and simmer for about 10 minute until fish is cooked through and flakes apart.  Add salt to taste (about 1 tsp) and the lime juice and garnish with coriander.

I had baked some sweet potatoes in their jackets while making this soup (about an hour at 400 F) and found spoonfuls of the sweet potatoes complimented the soup well.

2013-03-11

cod à l'espagnol

ML has been "jonesing" for white fish, so I made this tonight.  It's from "Cooking With Claudine" by Jacques Pépin, a book I am loving these days.

Mince a bunch of green onions and thinly slice 3 cloves of garlic.  In a deep skillet with a cover, sauté these briefly in about 1/4 cup of olive oil (not EVOO).  Add a zuccini and a green pepper diced medium and sauté for another minute.  Add about 4-5 peeled plum tomatoes seeded and cut in half inch strips, a big pinch of salt (about 1/2 tsp) and a small pinch of saffron (this is important).  Nestle 4 6 oz cod fillets (could be haddock or hake) in this preparation, cover, reduce heat to low and cook for about 10 minutes until cod flake apart.  Season with pepper.  Plate and drizzle with EVOO.

The fish was a beautiful colour and everything was perfectly cooked.  The vegetables and cod release a lot of liquid which become a delicious broth.