This side dish is for roast chicken or braised short rib or anything else out of the oven: Chop a head of cauliflower and steam it until soft (about 20 minutes). Add it to the blender with a (very) big hunk of butter and lots of salt and pepper. Blend to smooth; if you have trouble, adjust texture with cream, butter or water. Serve by making it a base layer on each plate, with the meat and vegetables on top. Cauliflower has a truffle-like thing going on that makes any meal seem fancier.
I have made this a few times and it never disappoints! It is an assemblage of ideas from different sources.
Burn a few pounds (I have done up to 4) of beef short rib in a bit of butter in a very hot oven-proof pan. Don't skimp on this step; you want them super-dark on the outside. Remove them to a plate. Then cook a couple onions, chopped coarsely, in the pan until the onions are starting to caramelize. Also don't skimp on this step; you want the onions to get sweet. These two steps take 45 minutes, combined, in reality. While you are doing this, pre-heat the oven to 250F.
Add to the pot one can of cheap beer, a few tablespoons of molasses, a fair bit of salt, and maybe two tablespoons of vinegar. You want some sweet and some sour. The 'Chard recommends trying star anise if you want to go more asian. That's worth trying. Garlic is also a good idea. Put the whole thing, covered, in the 250F oven for three hours. Remove the cover for the last hour of that to reduce the liquid a bit. At the end, the meat falls apart on your fork and is a bit sweet.
If you have a day job, do the two covered hours the night before, save it until tomorrow, and do the last uncovered hour the next day. That's what I'm doing tonight, and maybe it's even better this way. Serve with mashed potatoes or cauliflower purée and some greens like bok choy (sautéed with soy sauce, mirin, and sesame oil). And don't forget the braising pan juices; they are half the point of this dish!
I got this recipe from Kate Hamerton (who modified it from something in The Times): Put one stick of butter, one large can of whole tomatoes, and one onion,
quartered, into a saucepan with salt to taste. Simmer for one hour, mashing the tomatoes as little or as much as you like. Remove onions at the end. Crazy!
My drink texting (not drunk texting) with Chris Borden of Seattle got me onto beer cocktails. Here's the state of my research as of right now. I have many variations, and I certainly don't know what is the difference between a chelada and a michelada. And I also love to add some Clamato (tm)!
- juice of 3/4 to 1 lime
- many shakes of salt (ie, a large pinch)
- two shakes of Old Bay (tm) seasoning
- two dashes of very hot hot sauce
- three dashes of Worchestershire sauce
- one can or bottle of ice-cold Modelo (tm) or Pacifico (tm) or Corona (tm) or equivalent.
Mix everything but the beer (so that the salt dissolves) in a pint glass and then pour the beer in slowly. Enjoy! Serves one.
Starts off looking like this with the shanks (no browning!) about half submerged in the braising liquid:
This one is in high rotation Chez Hogg: Burn some chopped onion, carrot, and celery in a few tbsb of butter. Add 8-ish ounces of white wine, bring to a boil. Add 2lb of ice-cold, rinsed mussels. Boil/steam until all the mussels are open and plump (and give them a few more minutes after that); should take less than 15 min.
Partition mussels into shallow bowls, and then finish the soup with (lots of) salt, pepper, parsley, and (optionally) cream. Pour soup over mussels in the shallow bowls. Top with a bit more parsley and finely chopped fresh onion or shallot.
Serves four with french fries or salad or eight as a first course for something. Can be expanded arbitrarily (as we learned on Christmas Eve this year). Also consider adding curry to the soup, or harissa.
- 6 eggs
- 2 slices of stale bread cubed
- 1/4 cup grated parmesan
- 1/4 cup heavy cream
- 1/4 tsp salt
- pepper to taste
- 1 zucchini cut into small dice, blanched in salted water and drained well (about a cup)
- 1/4 fresh basil chiffonade
When the ratio is wrong, the "soup" is regarded with (at best) thinly veiled disdain as a shallow plateful of damp vegetables. My goal is to improvise soups that elicit cries of joy and satisfaction; the team appreciates the food I make, but the joy's not always there. Excelsior!
- 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
- 1/2 cup stone ground rye flour
- 1/2 tsp baking soda
- 1 tsp baking powder
- 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
- 3/4 tsp ground ginger
- 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
- 1/4 tsp ground cloves
- 1/2 cup coarsely ground shelled, toasted pumpkin seeds
- 1 cup yoghurt
- 1 cup pumpkin puree
- 1 egg
- 4 tbsp brown sugar
- 3 tbsp melted sweet butter
and built up the contour with slanted sides in regular clay
and lined with regular pie dough.
I was worried about the difference in thermal conductivity of the metal and the clay and thought baking the bottom crust blind before filling might be prudent. (Line pan with pastry and cover the pastry with foil. Fill cavity with pie weights---I use dry navy beans which I keep for reuse. Bake at 425F for 25 minutes. Remove weights and foil and return to oven for about 10 minutes to brown crust.) I made enough filling for two pies, filled the still-warm bottom crust, topped the pie and decorated.
Apple pie is lumpy and pie dough puffs and shifts on baking and none of this makes for easy sculptural effects. As you can see, the result didn't exactly scream "bro fist", but a little paint (slightly diluted red food colouring)---and being six feet directly above the pie---made all the difference. Hard to tell from the picture, but the thumb nail is sugar crust. Also hard to tell from the picture is how delicious the pie was!
The bottom and top crust were well baked and browned and the pie cut just fine, but the sides were still a little softer than I would have liked. If I had to do it again, when baking the bottom crust blind, I would take out most of weights after 25 minutes, pull the foil away from the sides (which will have baked enough not to collapse), return the pan to the oven for 10-15 minutes and then remove the rest of the weights and foil and give it a final 10 minutes. This would allow the sides to be fully cooked and more deeply browned before filling the pie at which point browning of that part of the crust clearly stops. The hot filling steams the side crust, which is up against the clay dam, whereas the bottom crust keeps browning on the outside, where it is in contact with the metal pan. (This is assuming I don't go into business making countless bro fist pies, in which case I would first have metal pans custom made in the correct shape and not have to prebake the crust at all.)
Happy 12th Birthday, Nate! Keep being awesome, like I know you will bro'. Love, Dad.