2018-03-25

cauliflower purée

This side dish is for roast chicken or braised short rib or anything else out of the oven: Chop a head of cauliflower and steam it until soft (about 20 minutes). Add it to the blender with a (very) big hunk of butter and lots of salt and pepper. Blend to smooth; if you have trouble, adjust texture with cream, butter or water. Serve by making it a base layer on each plate, with the meat and vegetables on top. Cauliflower has a truffle-like thing going on that makes any meal seem fancier.

2018-03-24

braised short rib

I have made this a few times and it never disappoints! It is an assemblage of ideas from different sources.

Burn a few pounds (I have done up to 4) of beef short rib in a bit of butter in a very hot oven-proof pan. Don't skimp on this step; you want them super-dark on the outside. Remove them to a plate. Then cook a couple onions, chopped coarsely, in the pan until the onions are starting to caramelize. Also don't skimp on this step; you want the onions to get sweet. These two steps take 45 minutes, combined, in reality. While you are doing this, pre-heat the oven to 250F.

Add to the pot one can of cheap beer, a few tablespoons of molasses, a fair bit of salt, and maybe two tablespoons of vinegar. You want some sweet and some sour. The 'Chard recommends trying star anise if you want to go more asian. That's worth trying. Garlic is also a good idea. Put the whole thing, covered, in the 250F oven for three hours. Remove the cover for the last hour of that to reduce the liquid a bit. At the end, the meat falls apart on your fork and is a bit sweet.

If you have a day job, do the two covered hours the night before, save it until tomorrow, and do the last uncovered hour the next day. That's what I'm doing tonight, and maybe it's even better this way. Serve with mashed potatoes or cauliflower purée and some greens like bok choy (sautéed with soy sauce, mirin, and sesame oil). And don't forget the braising pan juices; they are half the point of this dish!

2018-01-15

tomato sauce for pasta

I got this recipe from Kate Hamerton (who modified it from something in The Times): Put one stick of butter, one large can of whole tomatoes, and one onion,
quartered, into a saucepan with salt to taste. Simmer for one hour, mashing the tomatoes as little or as much as you like. Remove onions at the end. Crazy!

2017-02-11

michelada

My drink texting (not drunk texting) with Chris Borden of Seattle got me onto beer cocktails. Here's the state of my research as of right now. I have many variations, and I certainly don't know what is the difference between a chelada and a michelada. And I also love to add some Clamato (tm)!

  • juice of 3/4 to 1 lime
  • many shakes of salt (ie, a large pinch)
  • two shakes of Old Bay (tm) seasoning
  • two dashes of very hot hot sauce
  • three dashes of Worchestershire sauce
  • one can or bottle of ice-cold Modelo (tm) or Pacifico (tm) or Corona (tm) or equivalent.

Mix everything but the beer (so that the salt dissolves) in a pint glass and then pour the beer in slowly. Enjoy! Serves one.

2016-05-06

moroccan braised lamb shanks: what they don't tell you

Made "Moroccan Braised Lamb Shanks" from marthastewart.com today.  The ingredients in the recipe all made sense but the total typical cooking time was not specified.  Also, it wasn't clear whether to cover the pan or not, but since the recipe mentioned "until the sauce has reduce somewhat", I assumed the pan should be uncovered.  In the end, it was 5 hours at 325 for the mean to be "falling off the bone".  Turn after the first hour and then every 30 minutes or so.  In other words, this a good one to make when you'll be home anyway.

Starts off looking like this with the shanks (no browning!) about half submerged in the braising liquid:


After an hour and half, still not too inspiring:


But after a total of 5 hours:


Great colour, tastes amazing.  Don't bother trying to strain the sauce.  Just tip the pan to pool the sauce at one end and use a spoon to push the fat out of the way.  They serve it with seared baby fennel, a wheat berry salad and minted yoghurt.  Haven't got that tonight so it'll be couscous and blanched green beans tossed with extra virgin olive oil.

This dish would also scale easily to a dozen shanks in a larger roasting pan.  This technique is very similar to one proposed by Alice Waters in The Art of Simple Food for pork shoulder with chiles (the half-submerged lid-off braise).

2016-01-16

steamed mussels in white wine

This one is in high rotation Chez Hogg: Burn some chopped onion, carrot, and celery in a few tbsb of butter. Add 8-ish ounces of white wine, bring to a boil. Add 2lb of ice-cold, rinsed mussels. Boil/steam until all the mussels are open and plump (and give them a few more minutes after that); should take less than 15 min.

Partition mussels into shallow bowls, and then finish the soup with (lots of) salt, pepper, parsley, and (optionally) cream. Pour soup over mussels in the shallow bowls. Top with a bit more parsley and finely chopped fresh onion or shallot.

Serves four with french fries or salad or eight as a first course for something. Can be expanded arbitrarily (as we learned on Christmas Eve this year). Also consider adding curry to the soup, or harissa.

2015-04-27

savory mini-flan or mini-strata


Just pulled these together and feel I must write this down as it could be a breakthrough addition to school lunch options for my people.  Two of these (which would be good at any temperature) and a nice green salad: baby!
  • 6 eggs
  • 2 slices of stale bread cubed
  • 1/4 cup grated parmesan
  • 1/4 cup heavy cream
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • pepper to taste
  • 1 zucchini cut into small dice, blanched in salted water and drained well (about a cup)
  • 1/4 fresh basil chiffonade 
Divide among six buttered popover molds (silicone works great) and bake at 375F for about 40 min or until the internal temperature of the flans is about 170F. Serves 3 adults for a light lunch.

The cup of cooked veg and cooked be replaced with cooked carrots, green beans, broccoli, chopped spinach, etc. and easily doubled.  This is how I would stretch this to feed 6 adults.

2014-10-08

what makes a chunky soup a soup?

The team doesn't like their soup to be more chunky stuff than broth.  For me, 1:1 is a good chunk:broth ratio, but I have a feeling they're looking for 1:2 or even 1:3 if the broth is especially good or the chunks don't involve pasta.

When the ratio is wrong, the "soup" is regarded with (at best) thinly veiled disdain as a shallow plateful of damp vegetables.  My goal is to improvise soups that elicit cries of joy and satisfaction; the team appreciates the food I make, but the joy's not always there.  Excelsior!



muffin lab 1: canned pumpkin and crushed seeds

As part of a pantry purge, I want to use up some canned pumpkin puree.  The family doesn't really dig pumpkin pie, so I'm turning it into muffins and trying to come up with my own recipe. 

Also, T had a go at some roasted, shelled pumpkin seeds in the mortar and pestle a few days ago for fun, and I promised I would bake the resulting "meal" into some future muffins.  That future is upon us.

This recipe is an experiment based on the overall proportions of ingredients in muffin recipes in The Enchanted Broccoli Forest by Mollie Katzen as well as the proportion of pie spices to pumpkin puree in The Best Recipe from Cook's Illustrated.
  • 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup stone ground rye flour
  • 1/2 tsp baking soda
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 3/4 tsp ground ginger
  • 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
  • 1/4 tsp ground cloves
  • 1/2 cup coarsely ground shelled, toasted pumpkin seeds
Whisk dry ingredients to combine.
  • 1 cup yoghurt
  • 1 cup pumpkin puree
  • 1 egg
  • 4 tbsp brown sugar
  • 3 tbsp melted sweet butter
Whisk wet ingredients together until mixture is uniform.  Combine wet and dry mixtures using as few strokes of a fork as possible.  Using ice cream scoop, distribute batter into lightly greased (I use butter) non-stick (yes, I grease it anyway) 12-muffin pan.  Sprinkle additional pumpkin seeds on top. Bake at 350F for about 20 minutes or until knife stuck in center muffin comes out clean

Result:  
Took more like 40 minutes to bake.  Smell was good.  Only muffins in outer positions were browned. Not nearly sweet enough.  A little bitter? Very moist, almost pudding like.  After cooling for 30 minutes texture had firmed up a bit but still too moist.

Discussion:
It is true that Mollie is quite conservative in her use of sweeteners (and flavour enhancers in general, including salt).  Whereas the 4 tbsp of sugar I used is only  60 ml, Cook's specifies 1/2 c (125 ml) brown sugar per cup of pumpkin puree in a pie, so maybe 6 tbsp of brown sugar and 2 tbsp fancy molasses would work better.  This comes to 8 tbsp or 24 tsp of sugar or 2 tsp per muffin, which is the same as, for example, a typical chewy-style granola bar and that really is the school-yard competition for these muffins.  I'm already taking a risk not adding chocolate chips, but I figured the Hallowe'en pumpkin angle might buy me some indulgence.

The bitter note might be the rye flour, so this will replaced with 1 cup all-purpose flour (for a total of 2 cups AP flour for 1 c puree + 1 sour dairy).  Increasing the flour should make the muffin a bit less puddingy.  I'm out of yoghurt, so I'll use 1 c whole milk + 1 tbsp lemon juice instead.

As for the salt and spices, I'll leave those as is.  I'm expecting a result more like banana bread this time.

Result of second version:
30 minutes at 350F, 2 minutes rest in the pan, 30 minutes cooling on rack.  Much better texture and still not too cakey (would need more butter and sugar to change the crumb).  Delicious...if you like gingerbread and pie spice, which I do.  Will see how the team reacts.  Team likes (ML not so much: she's the apple pie type).




2014-06-10

pewdiepie brofist pie (or Pewdie Pie)

Nathan asked for a Pewdiepie themed birthday party this year and no such party would be complete without a Pewdiepie Pie.  The birthday boy suggested a "bro fist" and PMC accepted the challenge.  The pie would be apple and needed to serve 15-20, so equivalent to about two regular 9" pies.

I sketched the iconic bro fist (thank-you Google image search) on the floor of a baking pan in Sharpie:

bro fist shape sketched in the bottom of baking pan


and built up the contour with slanted sides in regular clay


which was then covered in aluminum foil


and lined with regular pie dough.


I was worried about the difference in thermal conductivity of the metal and the clay and thought baking the bottom crust  blind before filling might be prudent. (Line pan with pastry and cover the pastry with foil.  Fill cavity with pie weights---I use dry navy beans which I keep for reuse.  Bake at 425F for 25 minutes.  Remove weights and foil and return to oven for about 10 minutes to brown crust.)  I made enough filling for two pies, filled the still-warm bottom crust, topped the pie and decorated.



Apple pie is lumpy and pie dough puffs and shifts on baking and none of this makes for easy sculptural effects.  As you can see, the result didn't exactly scream "bro fist", but a little paint (slightly diluted red food colouring)---and being six feet directly above the pie---made all the difference.  Hard to tell from the picture, but the thumb nail is sugar crust.  Also hard to tell from the picture is how delicious the pie was!

The bottom and top crust were well baked and browned and the pie cut just fine, but the sides were still a little softer than I would have liked.  If I had to do it again, when baking the bottom crust blind, I would take out most of weights after 25 minutes, pull the foil away from the sides (which will have baked enough not to collapse), return the pan to the oven for 10-15 minutes and then remove the rest of the weights and foil and  give it a final 10 minutes.  This would allow the sides to be fully cooked and more deeply browned before filling the pie at which point browning of that part of the crust clearly stops. The hot filling steams the side crust, which is up against the clay dam, whereas the bottom crust keeps browning on the outside, where it is in contact with the metal pan. (This is assuming I don't go into business making countless bro fist pies, in which case I would first have metal pans custom made in the correct shape and not have to prebake the crust at all.)

Happy 12th Birthday, Nate! Keep being awesome, like I know you will bro'.  Love, Dad.